As fashion month rapidly descends over the industry, fashion capitals’ federations have started to release their official schedules, providing an idea of what to anticipate from their respective cities. Paris will be a lineup dominated by first-time exhibitors, who dominate this year’s French Fashion Week schedule for the upcoming spring/summer 2024 season.
It was announced through the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM). The tentative schedule is scheduled to run from September 25 until October 3 and will feature runway shows that run for 67 days and 41 talks, totaling an impressive 108 attendees. While the standard favorites, including Christian Dior, Saint Laurent, and Balmain, are expected to be a part of Paris in their presence, there are many notable returnees to the schedule that had previously been omitted from this fashion show.
Belgian brand Maison Margiela and South Korea’s Kimhekim are among those who have returned, as is Carven. The French label will return to Paris after a gap of five years. It will showcase its first collection designed by Creative Director Louise Trotter, who stepped into the position in February following her stint in the same role at Lacoste for the past four years. Additionally, Mugler is also back in the program, but according to WWD, the brand will gradually revert to its ‘buy now, see now’ approach in previous years.
Mugler, Maison Margiela and Carven return to Paris
Although this return hints at a significant event, the newcomers are creating discussion for this season. Dutch label Duran Lantink, Belgian designer Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, and the UK’s Kiko Kostadinov are among the designers who will be hosting runways and fashion shows, while the Chinese’s Caroline Hu, Australian designer Christopher Esber, Italy’s Quira and Spanish label Paloma Wool are organizing presentations.
Marni will also begin its first runway journey onto Parisian ground. The Italian fashion house’s show continues its touring concept for performances, a concept developed by the creative director Francesco Risso in 2021. It has seen the brand stage runway shows on the runways of Tokyo in Tokyo and New York. The Paris show Paris will be the third of four parts, according to Risso, who revealed to WWD in the past year that he’s considering a return trip to Milan to finalize the development of the design.
The New York-based fashion designer Peter Do is another new name to be added to the list. In the past, the American brand entered the menswear market initially after building a solid foundation in womenswear. Do’s debut in Paris will follow his debut in Collection of Helmut Lang, which will be shown in September during New York Fashion Week.
Additionally, France’s Casablanca is now a second part of the Paris program and marks the first time the company has not been on Menswear’s calendar. In a statement, Cre, active Director Charaf Tajer said that although Menswear was an aspect of the DNA of Casablanca, “the womenswear category has been a natural evolution.” So, the brand is ready to present both womenswear and Menswear on the French runway. According to the release, it is “a new and exciting chapter for the brand.”
Australian designer Christopher Esber will also be making his Paris debut this season. He previously showed in New York Fashion Week in earlier years before being an Australian Fashion Week regular. Esber has achieved acclaim since the launch of his brand name in 2010 and was named an earlier recipient of L’Oreal’s National Designer Award, the Regional Woolmark Prize, and the Vogue Italia Most Talented Design Award for the region of Australia and Pacific. The Esber brand has also been selected as the Designer of the Year in the Australian Fashion Designer of the Year.
No-shows: Ester Manas and Off-White
There are a few notable names not included in the list, However. That comprises Ester Manas, a brand founded by the founders Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre. In their Instagram blog post, the “strategic pause” reflected “a commitment to invest in the future.” The couple, who took home the prize specifically for Andam 2023, said: “By avoiding catwalks, we are also underscoring our unwavering commitment to dedicating the time needed to create sustainable collections and products.” The brand now focuses on a broader collection that will launch in March 2024.
Off-White is also missing from the lineup; however, the reason for the absence of Off White hasn’t been made clear. Off White, founded by Virgil Abloh, named Ibrahim Kamara as the Designer’s successor in May 2022. He was tasked to carry on the vision of Abloh. The shift in the brand was also apparent in June of this year, the month that Cristiano Fagnani was named the new CEO, replacing New Guards Group co-founder Davide De Giglio.