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Fashion is growing, but it has a large environmental impact. Some brands are leading the way in reducing waste, improving recycling, and encouraging upcycling. If we want to make fashion sustainable, both consumers and the industry need to work together.
Fashion is growing, but it has a large environmental impact. Some brands are leading the way in reducing waste, improving recycling, and encouraging upcycling. If we want to make fashion sustainable, both consumers and the industry need to work together.
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The fashion industry is growing rapidly as the global demand for clothing and shoes increases. Fast fashion is one of the trends that has driven this growth. Fast fashion and celebrity culture are quickly available at affordable prices. Fashion calendars of designers can include up to five collections a year. In the mass-produced sector, new stock is produced every two weeks. Fashion is not an exception. Mass production and consumption often lead to mass waste, as with other commodities.
Fashion trends change quickly, and the desire to purchase the latest styles can lead to many items being thrown away. Landfilling clothing is a costly practice, not only in terms of irreplaceable resources and the economy but also because 73% end up in landfills. It is estimated that PS140,000,000 worth of clothing are sent to landfills each year in the UK. Even though a large portion of recycled fibers is downgraded and used as insulation, industrial wipes, or stuffing, this still only represents 12% of all discarded materials.
Fashion, especially items with short lifespans, is causing concern among the world’s population. The mass-produced fashion industry is often located in countries where labor is cheap, but the working conditions are poor. Sweatshops are even found in countries that have stricter regulations. Transporting products from the places of production to the points of sale is a major contributor to the textile industry’s increasing carbon footprint. In 2015, 1.2 billion metric tonnes of CO2 was reportedly released. Textile dyeing, finishing, and washing are believed to be responsible for 20% of water pollution in the world. The production of clothing uses water in many ways, such as the growing of cotton, the manufacturing process, the washing and dyeing, and the weaving. A single pair of jeans can use over 5,000 L of water. Add to this the overuse of chemicals, water, and energy by consumers in the washing process, as well as the final disposal to landfills and incineration.
The environmental impact of fast fashion is increasing as the demand grows. The negative effects of the industry are evident throughout the entire supply chain, from the production of raw materials to disposing of barely used garments. The darker side of fashion is becoming more and more apparent, as are the demands for change, not only from regulatory agencies or global action groups but also from individual consumers. People are looking for ethical clothing. Sustainability and style. It isn’t easy to achieve this.
Demand for Sustainable Fashion
In the past, consumers were more interested in sustainable brands, and they were often associated with the “hippie” stereotype. In recent years, both consumers and designers have become more interested in sustainable fashion. The aesthetic appeal of the clothing has also evolved, making it more appealing to a larger audience. In order to buy into the brand’s ethics, consumers must also be able to purchase an attractive, modern garment.
The fashion industry faces a challenge in addressing sustainability and ethical concerns while remaining economically viable and looking to the future. The cost of sustainable and ethical brands will increase due to fairer wages, improved working conditions, sustainably produced materials, and constructions that are built for durability. When making a purchase, the consumer is faced with many considerations. Some of these are in conflict and can cause the consumer to prioritize the cost.
Many buyers who value sustainability above fashion but can’t afford to pay the higher price of sustainable clothing will opt for second-hand items instead. Fashion and second-hand clothes do not have to be mutually incompatible, as the trend towards luxury vintage clothing shows. Vintage clothing stands in stark contrast to “fast fashion.” It is a great way to express your individuality and save something valuable from the landfill. Vintage pieces used to be purchased exclusively at auctions, but now, many online sellers deal in them. Vintage clothing is a popular pre-owned item, especially among celebrities, fashion influencers, and designers.
Fashion Circular
In an ideal system, the life cycle of a garment would be a series of circles such that the garment would continually move to the next life–redesigned, reinvented, and never discarded–eliminating the concept of waste. Vintage is gaining in popularity, but it is just one part of a circular industry.
The challenge of achieving sustainability in garment production is a complex one. The fact that “more that 80% of an item’s environmental impact is determined during the design phase” 7 is quoted often, meaning designers are expected to solve this problem. The responsibility for solving the issue should not be solely on the designer but should include all parties involved in the supply chain. The fashion industry includes designers, pattern cutters, garment technologists, and manufacturers, including textile producers and factories that produce garments. The consumer must not only properly dispose of, reuse, or upcycle clothing but also wash it and take care of it in a sustainable way to ensure longevity. All of these stakeholders need to work together in order to create a sustainable supply chain.
Denim is a traditional expression of individualism and freedom. It is produced globally at 1.7 billion pairs per year. Denim jeans, a symbol of liberty and identity, are currently made in mass-market channels, mid-tiers, and premium designers at 1.7 billion pairs per annum. This number is expected to increase. Some denim experts are trying to find ways to make their products more sustainable in response to the growing demand.
Designers and brands like Levi Strauss & Co., Mud Jeans, and others are taking on the responsibility of ensuring that their clothes will be used and recycled for many years to come. The brands offer take-back, mending, and recycling services at the end of their life. Many brands have adopted vintage fashion. Levi’s “Authorized Vintage,” which features upcycled and pre-worn vintage items, is a great example of conscious consumption. It also makes vintage style more desirable because it has an iconic status. The company uses its archives to source all materials, and redesigns are a way for the company to “relive” its treasured past.
Mud Jeans, in particular, is working towards a circular business by taking a “seasonless” and more thoughtful approach to their collection by focusing instead on longevity and pieces that transcend seasons. They also offer a leasing service, whereby jeans can be exchanged for another style or returned at the end of their life to be recycled into new fiber. As with footwear, garments are composed of a variety of materials, which are hard to separate for recycling. The challenge with garments, as with footwear, is that they are made up of many different materials, which can be difficult to separate and sort for recycling.
Consumers are responsible for the future of a purchased product. Many do not know about the options of recycling or how to care for their clothing. The companies are educating them. Levi Strauss & Co. launched “Care Tag for Our Planet” in 2009 to give simple instructions on how to wash clothes to conserve water and energy and to guide people as to what to do with their clothing when they are no longer required. Mud Jeans uses a similar approach by emphasizing the need to stop washing clothes too often and suggesting air washing.
Alessandro Michele, Gucci’s creative director, announced (May 2020) that the Italian brand will end the tradition of five fashion shows per year and instead “hold shows only twice a year to reduce waste.” Alessandro Michele announced that Gucci will stop holding five fashion shows a year in May 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Instead, the brand will only have two shows a year.
Transparency
Discussions about sustainable fashion have led to an increasing demand for transparency from consumers in the supply chain of fashion garments and their life cycle. The consumer wants to be informed. Fast-fashion companies that wish to appear environmentally responsible and media-excited are not trusted. They want to understand the origins of the product, its environmental impact, and its social impact.
In response, some companies seek to understand the environmental impact of their products better. Levi Strauss & Co., a denim specialist, analyzed the garment’s life cycle in 2015 to determine the ecological impact. Textile production and consumer washing care were the areas with the greatest water consumption and environmental impact. The consumer phase consumed 37% of the energy.13 Fiber and textile production was responsible for 36%, while the remaining 27% went to garment production, transportation, logistics, packaging, and other costs. Several other companies have introduced dyeing methods that use much less water. They are also working to improve textile recycling.
This discussion is not limited to production. Some high street brands have a “take-back” scheme, where customers are asked to return unwanted clothing for a discount or to get rid of unwanted items. This could encourage customers to buy more clothes without feeling guilty. However, the final destination of the returned clothing can be unclear. Consumers cannot make informed decisions if they do not have more information about what happens to their clothing at the end of its life cycle.
Collective Responsibility
It is not acceptable to pass the buck when it comes to sustainability. Fashion industry professionals often believe that the power lies with the consumer. They have the purchasing power, and their decisions determine the way the industry will react. The fashion industry is not allowed to ask the consumer to purchase less. If a sustainable cycle is to be achieved, then all stakeholders must be held accountable. There are also growing calls for the fashion industry’s regulation.
There is a pressing need to find new markets and materials for used clothing to meet the demand for new clothes. Currently, durable clothing reduces production and processing impact, and designers and brands can take steps to reuse and recycle clothing. The environmental impact of buying large amounts of new clothing will continue to be high.
Both consumers and professionals in the fashion industry must be involved if we are to have a sustainable future. While certain brands and companies are leading the charge in promoting greater transparency and sustainability, it isn’t easy to reverse or slow down overconsumption. The constant cycle of fashion production is also responsible for millions of jobs. The recycling, upcycling, and reuse of textiles and apparel are only short-term benefits. The real impact comes from new circular business models that take into account the entire life cycle of the garments and designs in the original concept. Giving clothing a second, third, and fourth life is crucial if we want to maximize their value.