While we try to keep ourselves healthy from head to toe, many forget about what’s at the very top of our bodies — our hair. But there’s good reason to want to keep your locks healthy. “Our hair is our crown — it’s one of the first things people see when they meet us,” says Jessica Walker, hairstylist and founder of J. Walker Salon Group in New Jersey. “Our hair dictates so much of our confidence and how we feel inside and out,” she adds.
Healthy hair can boost self-esteem, but it also plays a vital role in other aspects of good health. “Our hair protects us from the cold, it insulates our head, and it provides some cushioning against trauma,” says Debra Wattenberg, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Plus, your hair can be a window into what’s going on with your overall health. For example, a sudden hair loss could signal you’re experiencing too much stress or have an autoimmune disorder.
“Your hair can be an extension of your hygiene and can also reflect vitamin deficiencies and problems going on internally,” says Angela Lamb, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and associate professor of dermatology at the Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai in New York City. “If your hair and scalp are unhealthy, it can lead to itching, inflammation, and untreated chronic skin conditions like eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, and alopecia,” adds Lamb. Simply put, there are many reasons you should care about your hair — and want to keep it healthy — in addition to looking good.
Here, discover how to keep your hair in its best shape possible so it’s as healthy and fresh as ever.
What Is Hair Exactly?
Hair is a thin strand, or filament, of proteins, and a major one is called keratin. Hair also includes some fats, called lipids, in the inner shaft. Each strand is covered by a cuticle, which is made up of dead cells that help to protect the hair.
Why It’s Important to Care for Your Hair
Hair serves a role in your health — beyond giving you a confidence boost. Hair helps regulate your temperature, keeping you warm when it’s cold and helping wick sweat when you’re hot. It also helps provide a little padding if you fall and may protect your scalp from the sun.
Speaking of the scalp, it also plays a significant role in your health. As a primer, the scalp is comprised of soft tissue, and it provides a spot for hair to grow (hey, hair follicles!) and protects you from foreign invaders that may cause infection.
The oil the scalp produces — called sebum — can protect the skin from the sun and has an antimicrobial property.
Still, Dr. Wattenberg notes that the oils can also cause odor and infection — which is why you want to practice good hair hygiene!
Common Questions & Answers
What are the signs of healthy hair? Healthy hair strands have a sheen and a luster, minor breakage, minimal shedding, are moisture rich (so not dry), reflect light, do not break when brushed, and do not contain dandruff. What foods are good for your hair?
Do healthy hair supplements work? What are some ways I can make my hair healthy again naturally?
What does unhealthy hair look like?
What Does Healthy Hair Look Like?
Like a wide array of hair types, there is a significant range of signs of healthy hair. “Healthy hair is hair that is free of breakage and split ends and is achieving its maximum potential for your particular hair type,” says Lamb. “So, for example, if you have a curly hair pattern, it might not be ‘shiny,’ but as long as during washes you are not experiencing excess loss or breakage, your hair is healthy,” Lamb adds.
According to the experts interviewed, these are some of the main signs of healthy hair, though they may not apply to all hair types. “We have to be careful not to define hair health by certain cultural standards,” says Lamb.
- Exhibits minor breakage and minimal shedding
- Does not break when it’s brushed
- Does not contain dandruff
- Reflects light
- Has sheen and luster
- Contains moisture
Signs Your Hair Is Potentially Unhealthy
Just like you can feel when your hair is healthy, you can tell something is up when it’s not. For instance, you may be losing more hair than usual, or your hair may feel super dry.
“There are universal indicators of hair health, though hair type impacts the intensity of these things,” says Luis Pacheco, celebrity hair colorist and founder of TO112, a beauty and lifestyle brand. For example: “Naturally dehydrated hair types, like kinky and curly hair or fully gray hair, will be prone to dryness — but if it starts breaking or feeling brittle, you need to take a look at what is going on,” Pacheco says.
Here, discover the signs of damaged hair, though they may vary depending on hair type:
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- The hair is brittle.
- Lots of hair is removed when running a brush or comb through it.
- Big clumps of hair fall out.
- You have visible bald spots or can easily see your scalp.
- The strands break at mid-shaft.
- The hair lacks luster or shine.
- It is split at the ends.
- It takes time to detangle.
- It is drier than usual.
How to Care for Your Hair: Do’s and Don’ts
While different hair types require other methods of care, one principle is universally true- showing your hair some TLC is essential. Here, discover the do’s and don’ts when keeping your hair healthy.
Don’t Overprocess Your Hair
“Overprocessing is bad for hair regardless of color, texture, and genetics,” says Wattenberg. As background, overprocessing happens when you bleach your hair or improperly use things like hair dye or relaxers. “Overprocessing leads to breakage of disulfide bonds and ultimately hair breakage,” says Wattenberg. Disulfide bonds are the chemical bonds that keep your hair’s proteins together, giving hair strength.
One study, for example, found that bleaching or excessively dying your hair can damage the cuticle layer, weaken the protein and cause lipid loss.
Thus, most experts recommend skipping the bleach and extending the time between color touch-ups (in the winter, they suggest waiting as long as 8 to 10 weeks).
Do Choose a Shampoo and Conditioner That‘s Specific to Your Hair Type
If you walk down the hair-care aisle at your local store, chances are you can find a product for every hair type (and every hair issue). And they’re not just a gimmick. “These products are quite specialized and can make a difference,” says Wattenberg. “Is your scalp dry or oily? Is your hair color-treated? Do you have dandruff? Be sure to choose the shampoo and conditioner designed for you,” she says. For example, the American Academy of Dermatology advises that people with dandruff use a specially formulated shampoo to help treat and control it.
Don’t Overdry Your Hair
Another method of overprocessing? Using your hair dryer and hot styling tools too regularly. “Blow-dryers, curling irons, and flat irons can burn your hair and your scalp — and can cause your hair to break and fall out,” says Wattenberg.
Past research has analyzed the effects of using hair dryers at various temperatures and found that the hair’s surface became more damaged as the hair dryer temperature rose. If you use a hair dryer, the study authors suggest using it at the lowest temperature, 15 centimeters away, to prevent damage as much as possible. Also, move the device continuously rather than staying in one spot for long periods.
Do Shield Your Hair and Scalp From the Sun
When it comes to sun protection, most of us are concerned about our skin (from our face down to our toes), but do you ever think about your scalp and hair? You should! “Color-treated hair can change colors from the sun, but also the scalp can burn,” says Wattenberg. Even though the hair does block some ultraviolet rays that can cause cancer, it doesn’t help shield you if you have bald spots or a part in your hair.
The solution? “Wear a hat or use an SPF sunscreen designed for the scalp,” advises Wattenberg. Also, be aware that the sun can damage your hair, too — not only discoloring it but also potentially damaging the cuticle and strength of the hair fiber.
Don’t Skip the Conditioner
While your showers might be hurried if your schedule is busy, ensuring you’re conditioning your hair after every shampoo is a good idea. That’s because conditioner can improve the look of hair that’s been damaged — it adds shine, helps strengthen it, and even reduces static electricity.
So, a little conditioner is worth it for a good hair day. Wattenberg advises ensuring you’re keeping the conditioner in long enough to see the benefits. Follow the directions noted on the bottle.
Also, follow a shampoo and conditioner routine based on your specific hair. “Styling practices vary completely based on hair type and desired style,” says Lamb. “For example, if you have dreadlocks, they can often be washed monthly, regularly conditioned, and protected at night — but if your hair is straighter, this styling practice will not lead to healthy hair,” Lamb adds. “In general, though, you should wash and condition your hair at the frequency necessary for your style and hair type. This can be daily or weekly or monthly.”
Do Protect Your Hair While Swimming
Although swimming is excellent exercise, ample time in the pool could be better for your hair. “Chemicals in the pool can dry and irritate your hair,” says Wattenberg.
She advises applying conditioner before jumping in or wearing a cap. It’s also wise to wet your hair with fresh water before conditioning it so that it absorbs the chlorine-free water rather than the chemical-filled H2O. You may even want to buy a special shampoo and conditioner designed for swimmers, which can help replace some of the hair’s moisture that may have been lost.
Don’t Intensely Brush Your Hair
Although you may be tempted to get out every last tangle, more brushing is needed for your tresses, mainly if you use all your strength to remove those knots.
Try as best as you can to brush gently to prevent breakage. Ideally, you’ll want to use a wide-tooth brush with smooth prongs (though ask your stylist if a particular meeting is best for your hair type).
If you have long hair, hold the lower portion of your hair as you carefully run the brush through the ends, and then move your hand up and continue to brush below your hand.
Do Conduct Your Research on Products Before Buying Them
A surprisingly long list of ingredients typically goes into making hair-care products; not all are healthy.
One study discovered a potential connection between breast cancer and personal use of hair dye (products bought over the counter), though more research is needed to understand whether hair dye causes an increased risk of breast cancer.
In the research, when white women used permanent hair dye one or more times in 12 months, their risk of developing breast cancer was 9 percent higher than women who didn’t use any. Black women who used permanent hair dye one or more times a month had an even greater risk — 45 percent higher than those who didn’t use it. The study involved 46,709 participants.
The authors point to the chemicals in hair dye potentially playing a role in breast cancer development. To help keep your hair (and body) healthy, it’s worth doing a little research before you buy any product for your hair. On the other hand, another longer and more extensive study showed no connection between hair dye and cancer risk.
The American Cancer Society notes that research results are mixed.
Ask your hairstylist what’s in the hair dye they use, and check out sites like the Environmental Working Group, which has a database of better-for-you hair care products made without the biggest chemical offenders. One note, though: Remember that some experts consider the Environmental Working Group’s views extreme on certain health subjects.
Don’t Go Too Long Without a Haircut
When your hair stylist suggests that you come back for a haircut every few months, it’s more than just to keep you as a regular client. “Regular haircuts help avoid damage from the ends up — split ends run up the shaft and weaken the hair, exposing it to moisture loss and tangles,” says Pacheco. Walker recommends a cut every six to eight weeks to prevent damage.
The same goes for people who are trying to grow their hair. “If you’re looking to grow your hair, you might be considering skipping a trim — but reshaping and trimming your hair regularly keeps it looking strong and healthy, as opposed to brittle and thin, while you move through the growing process,” Walker adds.
Do Consider a Silk Pillowcase
Sleeping with a silk pillowcase is trendy right now — and for good reason. “I suggest all hair types should consider a silk pillowcase, so you aren’t roughing up the cuticle while you sleep,” says Pacheco. “This is particularly beneficial for fizz-prone, curly, kinky, and fragile hair types,” he adds.
Don’t Let Braids, Cornrows, or Weaves Get Too Tight
It will likely get damaged if your hair is pulled tightly and hurts. Be sure to speak up if your stylist pulls your hair too tight, and then ask them to redo it. Repeated tight braids and cornrows can cause permanent follicle damage, potentially causing the hair not to grow back over time.
Do Go to a Professional for Relaxers
If you do use a relaxer, proceed with caution. It’s a good idea to go to a professional who can help ensure that the product is applied safely. Also, take your time between touch-ups. You’ll want to go at most every two to three months and ensure that only new hair gets the relaxer (not hair that’s already been relaxed).
If you notice your hair breaking or falling out after treatments, try avoiding chemicals altogether.
“Too many heat or chemical treatments can put stress on any hair type,” says Lamb.
Foods and Supplements for Healthy Hair
Did you know that what you eat can have a significant impact on the health of your hair? “Maintaining a well-balanced diet is a key factor in hair health, and if your body is not healthy, your hair may give you the first sign that something is up,” says Wattenberg. On the flip side, crash dieting or yo-yo dieting, as well as anemia and hormone imbalances, can all affect the hair’s growth, texture, length, and sheen, says Wattenberg.
Even though nutrients like vitamins, protein, fatty acids, and minerals are critical for maintaining healthy hair, you don’t necessarily have to go the supplement route. “These can usually be absorbed in sufficient quantities through the food you eat, assuming you have a well-balanced diet,” says Wattenberg.
Wattenberg says that the essential vitamins and nutrients for healthy hair include:
- Biotin
- Iron
- Zinc
- Vitamin C
- Vitamin D
- Protein
- Healthy fats (like omega-3 fatty acids)
“Some of my favorite foods include salmon for an excellent source of protein, omega-3 fats, and vitamin D,” says Wattenberg. “I’m also a big fan of eggs — they are a great way to get protein and biotin.” Because your hair is made up of so much protein, it’s an essential nutrient for growing. Healthy fats, meanwhile, keep your hair moisturized and looking its best.
Other powerhouse foods for your hair? “Make sure to eat plenty of citrus fruits, bell peppers, and spinach for vitamin C, which is key for collagen formation,” says Wattenberg.
“And add beef, spinach, lentils, and chickpeas to your meal for iron. It’s essential for hair strength and growth.”
If you don’t eat a balanced diet or are concerned about not getting enough of these vitamins, you should talk to your doctor about whether supplementing is right for you. While you can take each supplement individually, you can get one combined pill with all these nutrients specifically designed for hair, says Wattenberg. You may have seen these touted on Instagram or available at your local drugstore.
Something to remember: Supplements may interact with other supplements and aren’t regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration in the same way that conventional medications are. In particular, supplements can be approved after they are marketed and sold.
Though you may have heard otherwise in product marketing, studies on whether biotin supplements can help with hair growth are still being determined.
Thus, it’s essential to speak with your doctor before supplementing.
Hair Loss: Potential Causes and When to See a Doctor
Do you feel like you’re losing a lot of hair these days? Before you panic, know that some hair loss is common. “It’s normal to lose around 100 hairs per day,” says Wattenberg.
Still, hair loss does happen and can be just a temporary occurrence or permanent.
“There are numerous medical conditions that can cause hair loss, including thyroid disease, autoimmune disease, anemia, anorexia, and vitamin deficiencies, as well as stress, viruses — yes, COVID can cause hair loss,” explains Wattenberg. In particular, a deficiency of vitamins C and D, iron, riboflavin, and biotin may contribute to hair loss and too much vitamin A.
“The main contributor that I see in terms of hair loss is stress and anxiety,” observes Walker, who has been in the beauty and wellness industry for about 25 years. Age can also be a factor in hair loss.
As for COVID-19, hair loss can happen after a fever, usually two to three months post-illness, which is why some people who have had COVID-19 have reported hair loss symptoms. Thankfully this hair loss is typically only temporary, with the hair usually returning around six to nine months later.
Wattenberg adds that hair loss can also occur because of fad diets, weight loss, overprocessing your hair, hormonal imbalances, trauma, and even genetics. “Finally, some medications cause hair loss, too, so be sure to review them with your doctor,” says Wattenberg. For example, medications like lithium, beta-blockers, warfarin, heparin, and amphetamines, as well as chemotherapy medications, can all cause hair loss.
Black women should also know that they may be more prone to a type of hair loss called traction alopecia. Tight hairstyles like braids or cornrows that tug at the root of the hair and heat and chemicals can cause this condition.
So, when should you make a doctor’s appointment? “You should see a doctor if you notice circular areas of hair loss, pain or itching in the scalp, or you’re noticing a rapid increase of hair in the comb or brush or on the floor or in the drain,” says Lamb, who is Black. You should also see a doctor before you pursue any treatment.
Favorite Organizations for Essential Hair Info
You can get your healthy hair tips straight from dermatologists on this organization’s site. One of our favorites? Wash your hair based on how much oil your scalp produces. For example, someone with oilier hair might wash more often than someone with less oily hair.
American Cancer Society
Because the scalp is a prevalent place for skin cancer growth, this site is essential for learning the signs and getting more information about sun protection and skin cancer prevention.
Favorite Support Network for Hair Loss
Here you can find facts about alopecia, an autoimmune disease that causes hair loss on the scalp, face, and sometimes elsewhere on the body. You’ll also be able to join their support group, and they can also send you an info packet with tips and advice specifically for people with alopecia.
Favorite Resource for Hair and Mental Health
Do you ever vent to your hairstylist? They are often the first to hear about what’s weighing on your mind (if you have an appointment that day). So, this organization teaches barbers and stylists how to do “mental health first aid” to help their clients.
Favorite Organization for Finding Healthy Hair Products
Need help determining which beauty products are healthy and which aren’t? This database includes the effects the organization deems “healthiest” (as in no questionable chemicals) and best for the environment. Just know that some experts find the Environmental Working Group’s recommendations too extreme, so run any concerns by your healthcare team.
Summary
Just as it’s essential to give your body care by eating healthy, well-balanced meals and exercising, so, too, is it necessary to show your hair some love? “Hair endures a lot throughout the day, so it’s important that you give it a little TLC with gentle and nourishing shampoos to promote a healthy scalp, conditioners to restore elasticity and strength, and protectants to handle everything you throw at your hair in an average day,” says Pacheco.
Also, it’s wise to pay attention to your hair and “listen” to what it tries to tell you. “A person’s hair indicates the state of their overall health,” says Pacheco. “Unexplained breakage, hair loss, and the feeling of dry, brittle hair can be indicators of health changes you should look into,” Pacheco adds.
Thus, hair is more than simply something to be styled at the top of your head — it’s a window into your overall health, and it needs to be treated mindfully, just as you treat the rest of your body.