Automation can be a financial burden to small and medium Indian apparel companies if not implemented with the utmost economic and technological caution. High-end, customized products that are created by automated processes with high levels of sophistication can help the industry get rid of the price wars that hurt profitability.
Vijayalaxmi and a dozen co-workers watch with concern as the German-made machines, newly purchased, are installed to speed up production at an export house in India’s knitting hub, Tiruppur. The only human intervention required is for the machines to be programmed and cleaned occasionally. The workers were given one month’s notice to find new employment after more than ten years in the company. Vijayalaxmi, her co-workers, and the company will continue to exist in another knitting unit until technology and automation catch up with them.
All sectors have faced a technological and automated threat. The apparel industry was protected in some way, unlike the automobile and electronics industries. Fabrics and apparel manufacturing processes require a level of attention and detail that was once only possible by human hands. In the past decade, garment manufacturing units have increasingly moved towards automation. Robotics, according to a study by Vashisht and Rani (2020), can reduce the labor force by up to 80 percent. Raymond employed around 30,000 workers in 2016. In the next three-year period, robots and technology will replace about 10,000 workers. Sanjay Behl said, in an Economic Times interview, that “roughly 2,000 people work in each factory.” We are looking at reducing the number of workers to 20,000 by using technology. A robot could replace 100 workers. “While it is happening now in China, it will happen in India.”
Social equity is one of the three pillars that make up sustainability. Sustainable development goals aim to achieve decent work and economic progress for everyone. Along with intergenerational equality, intragenerational equity also plays a role. Most natural, social, and environmental scientists, however, believe that “sustainable development” is an oxymoron. (SACHS 2015). Even the cheap workforce in developing countries is falling victim to automation. The global inflation rate is increasing the cost of labor, which, in turn, is also rising. Advanced technology can now handle even the most difficult tasks.
Bangladesh is an example of a country that has this problem. Estimations suggest that the apparel market should grow by approximately 2,000,000 jobs per year. Only 60,000 jobs are created annually. Meanwhile, Bangladesh’s apparel production continues to grow at a rate of 19.5% using automation. Zahid Hussain is a World Bank economist who leads the South Asia Finance and Poverty Group. He says that “if you can’t absorb [young people] into productive activities, then they will do.” The things they do could not be pleasant for society. It’s like a social bomb.”
Industrialization was primarily brought to India and other developing nations to reduce poverty (Mishra 1978). Several policies were implemented to encourage the establishment of industries, with the goal of increasing national income, reducing income inequality, and creating employment with amenities such as health and education. These developing nations’ lenient policies on environmental protection helped many companies to establish themselves. At least, the damage caused to the environment resulted in jobs and income generation. It seems as though the industrialized nations are losing their main purpose, with more and more jobs being lost.
Automating the production process is a common investment by apparel manufacturers. Faster production lead times make it easier to deliver orders. The end product is also cheaper due to the reduction in labor costs. The combination of these two factors creates the basis for fast-fashion clothing. These garments will be worn, consumed, and discarded more quickly. Consumers will purchase more if they have a wide range of cheap products to choose from. An emotional attachment will be rare. This raises the question as to whether these businesses are aiming to create a quicker supply chain both for production and consumption.
Does that mean we should abandon technology and automation? Not at all. The right balance is crucial. It is essential to use technology that reduces waste, increases detailing, and standardizes processes without compromising employability. Sorting garments by color and material is the first step in recycling. Hand feeling and human touch are not always enough to separate garments according to material. Sorting garments with blended fabrics requires the use of NIR (near infrared). Virtual 3D modeling and sampling can reduce both the cost and time of selection to a large extent. In addition, initial samples are not always sold and end up in landfills. The virtual extract reduces the waste generated. There are many examples of these technological interventions. It is also worth noting that automation opens up new employment opportunities. These jobs will be held by software developers, coders, and others. In developing countries such as India, the society is diverse and has different skill levels and education levels. This society needs to create jobs for all segments in order to achieve inclusive economic growth.
Inclusion growth is economic growth that will provide employment for everyone and reduce poverty through the empowerment of people via education and skill development. We are moving into an age of Industrial Revolution 4. These advancing technologies can either increase or decrease social inequality, depending on how they are used. The Indian garment industry workers, once known as karigars in India, are now struggling to make ends meet. Innovative partnerships between organizations, NGOs, and government agencies can lead to the sustainable development of a society with equal opportunities. Inclusive growth can empower vulnerable and marginalized populations, improve livelihoods, and ultimately achieve equality.
It is difficult to predict future technology and its impact on jobs in the future. In a country with a high labor force, such as India, automation can have a negative effect on the social system. We must explore the huge potential of small, low-cost devices that help workers to do part of their job. This will increase the output from the existing workforce. This idea is also supported by recent publications of the ILO on the Indian apparel industry (Barcia De Mattos et al., 2021). Automation can be a financial burden to small and medium Indian apparel companies if not implemented with the utmost economic and technological caution. High-end, customized products that are created by automated processes with high levels of sophistication can help the industry eliminate the price wars that hurt profitability. Globally, the market for customized high-end clothing is expanding. This allows for both automation and artisanship. India, with its artisans and vast traditional knowledge, can build an artisanal industry to meet the global demand for products that are bespoke and have elegant craftsmanship. There is a wide variety of automation technologies that can be used to facilitate and empower this artisanal economic system. (Eglash R. 2020). The Indian apparel industry will have to find the best mix that suits the country.
The authors hope this article will facilitate and invite a discussion about a future vision of a more inclusive Indian clothing industry where economic value, labor value, environmental value, and social values can synergize without fear of exploitation, alienation, or extraction.