Kantha stitching is among the oldest techniques of craft in India that date to pre-Vedic times. The design that is used in Kantha stitching is the ideal Indian model for sustainable recycling. It demonstrates to the world that instead of throwing away and wasting old items, it is possible to preserve them and reuse them to make new items. It’s a design that is influenced by love, tradition, and recollections.
Children from West Bengal in India’s West Bengal and adjoining areas were swaddled by “Kanthas” that were made by their grandmothers and mothers for many years. Women in the household would sew these Kanthas by stitching and layering old dhotis and sarees. The numerous wash and wear cycles of these fabrics will make them soft and comfy. The threads used in stitching were drawn-out yarns of colorful borders. This is a great instance of recycling textiles to the highest level.
Kantha stitching is among the oldest techniques of craft in India. It is believed to date back to a pre-Vedic era that began around 1500 BCE. The most senior recorded source dates back to 500 years ago, in the poem Sri The Sri Chaitanya Charitamrita written by the poet Krishnadas Kaviraj. The poet recounts how Mahaprabhu’s mother sent him the Kantha for Puri. The Kantha can still be seen at Puri in the Gambhira, which is located in Chaitanya Dev, in Puri.
The meaning of Kantha is Sanskrit, which means old rags. The majority of them are made by hand in Hugli, Birbhum, Jessore, Faridpur, Khulna, and other regions from West Bengal and Bangladesh; the method used is a standard running stitch. The layers of old fabric are laid out. The lighter-colored materials are placed on the outer layers in order to provide more background for colorful stitches. The edges of each layer are carefully stitched to hold the various layers of fabric in the correct position. Detail stitching occurs in the next step, starting from the middle and working toward the edges. The designs range from animals, flowers, and even people to texts from religions and mythology. In Murshidabad, which is where most of the women who work in this art form are Muslims, The designs are more geometrically shaped. The patterns are evolving to conform to those of the Islamic artistic style, in which geometric shapes are more commonly used than organic ones. The running stitches appear like dots, creating the impression of pointillism. A good-quality Kantha stole or saree could appear equally elegant on the face as well as the reverse side.
In the past, signs and stitching were made from memory, and no patterns were created. For Nakshi Kantha, the pattern outline was initially drawn using dark-colored threads and then filled with lighter colors. The designs today are drawn with pencil on trace paper. The designs are transferred to fabric using Kerosine oil. Wooden blocks can also be employed to print out the outline.
The Kanthas were usually performed by rural women in the afternoons so that they had some free time from chores at home, farming, and caring for the children. The Kanthas provided them with an open canvas on which their imaginations could be the limit. Stories of folklore, from religious beliefs to family lives to festivals of culture, as well as dreams and hopes, have become part of the story. Several women typically created these Kanthas and sometimes passed them through generations. These were the relics of memories.
The art of making was not restricted to a particular social class. Women of both wealthy and low-income families could enjoy the art of making. The Kantha stitched by the Zamindar’s (landlord’s) wife could be more intricate in the type of materials and threads, b. Still, the detail and embroidery created by the wife of a farmer were equally captivating. The creative, imaginative skill and inventiveness are what makes Kantha stitching.
Kantha in the past, especially in rural Bengal, was a basic and useful product. It was manufactured over a longer time and stored by a family member for personal usage. They were primarily used as light covers to keep warm during winter. Pregnant mothers would stitch smaller Kanthas in the final couple of months of their pregnancy to wrap the newborn. This was thought to bring happiness to the family as well as protect the infant. Other uses include covers, prayer mats, purses, etc.
Kanthas are classified into different types based on the final usage. A study conducted by Textiles of India categorizes Kantha into seven kinds. These are
1. Arshilota The Arshilota A Cover for a miMirrorRadha Krishna’s stories usually inspire the central design. The wider border features flowers and trees or lines.
2.Bayton or Bastani 2. Bastani – Used as a covering for books or other valuable objects. The hundred-petalled lotus is the main motif that is used in this.
3. Batwa, also known as a purse. The square-shaped piece that is made of Kantha is stitched as an envelope. Animal and floral designs, like snakes and leaves, are created on these objects.
4. Lep, also known as a quilt is a coverlet that is quilted and layered with a saree. Wave or geometric patterns are stitched for the appearance of ripples.
5. Oar, also known as pillow cover. The name implies that it is used to make an option for a pillow cover. Motifs such as leaves, trees, and creepers are drawn around the four borders.
6. Sujni, also known as Nakshi Kantha, is a rectangular cloth that is utilized as a buffet to celebrate occasions. It is the most stunning piece of Kantha in which a number of crartisans collaborate to display their artistic talents. Lotus-inspired designs, as well as stories that come from Ramayana and Mahabharata, are displayed on Sujni.
7. Rumal or handkerchief – A small square of fabric that is used to make a handkerchief. A border of embroidery using small motifs is employed in this.
The art that is Kantha stitching is described in numerous pieces in Bengali literature. One of the most important works is the poem “Nakshi Kanthar Math’ written by poet Jasimuddin, which tells the tragic tale of loveless lovers who were never able to be together – Saju Rupai and Saju. Rupai. Sad and lonely, Saju creates the infamous Nakshi Kantha to remind her of her happy days with Rupai. It was because of the significance of this art form in Bengali tradition that it was connected to literature.
But, as with many other handloom makers and handicrafts, makers lose their income. In Shantiniketan t, the center of Kantha work, artisans are paid between Rs1,500 to Rs3,000 for an area. The process of making a saree could take as long as six months. Additionally, because of the absence of copyright laws, copies of products have been flooding the market.
The hope-filled rays come from designers of the future who are increasingly influenced to employ traditional techniques in their designs. From Delhi-based brands such as Indigene to international names such as Emily Bode, they have used embroidery in their collections. The 2015 Burberry collection titled ‘Patchwork paPatternsPatterns and Prints Th’howcases Kantha stitch.
The Kantha model Kantha works is the best Indian model for sustainable recycling. It demonstrates to the world that instead of throwing away and wasting old items, you can save them and reuse them to make new items. It’s a design that is inspired by romance, heritage, and memories.