Scientists have studied the many uses of essential oils ranging from increasing dental health and relieving the symptoms of nausea to reducing sleep disorders. It’s no secret that since the beginning of the age of science, people have been spreading concentrated extracts of plants on their skin. But do essential oils help improve the health of your hair and even promote growth? The answer is yes, based on one of the most recent TikTok trends.
The TikTok”hair oil” has generated over 1.6 billion viewers; each video receives millions of views. Many videos show influencers sporting beautiful, long, and healthy hair. They make claims that homemade mixtures of oils cause not only shine but also hair growth. On the video-sharing website, one influential user, @madelinewould, calls “hair oils” the hottest trend “hair oiling.”
Marisa Garshick, MD, a dermatologist from New York City, says hair loss is a frequent problem, particularly on days of peak COVID-19 where reports of hair loss due to physical stress were on the rise. “For this reason,” says Dr. Garshick, “many people are concerned about shedding and thinning and are looking for treatment options.”
A New York City- and LA-based famous stylist Sally Hershberger agrees that hair growth is a hot subject, and she has noticed that many of her clients shed hair following and before COVID-19.
But what can give someone’s gorgeous, strong locks back, and what’s just social media chatter isn’t as simple? Here are seven oils you should add to your routine of beauty usually ranked based on the amount of evidence from science that favors their use to maintain healthy hair, from the highest to the least.
Pumpkin Seed Oil
Hot or cold-pressing squash seeds produce the oil from pumpkin seeds. It is non-nut oil, according to Hershberger.
The Claim
The pumpkin seed oil has been “scientifically proven to stop hair loss,” claimed Taylor Rose, a certified IAT trichologist ( @thehealthyhur), in a TikTok video. “This oil is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, especially oleic and linoleic as well as vitamin E, all of which have the potential to aid in hair growth by reducing inflammation in the scalp.”
The Truth
Most research into the use of pumpkin seeds for hair loss is sporadic because the subjects studied are small, for instance, in the study published in February 2021 or in a study where the oil was checked on mice, posted at the close of 2019.
The idea that pumpkin seeds oil is beneficial for hair regrowth may have potential, however: One rigorous randomized controlled study of 76 men suffering from androgenetic hair loss, also known as male pattern baldness. The study found that an average of 400 milligrams (mg) daily from pumpkin seeds consumed internally for 24 weeks led to 30 percent greater hair growth than a placebo.
Pumpkin seed oil could stimulate growing hair like finasteride (Propecia), says Blair Murphy-Rose MD, certified by the board as a dermatologist and cosmetic physician in the Laser and Skin Surgery Center in New York. The oil is a source of phytosterols or plant-derived fatty compounds similar to cholesterol found in humans, which can block the effects of a protein called 5alpha reductase. It is linked to hormone-related hair loss, according to her. 5alpha reductase converts a type of testosterone into a more robust version of testosterone, “and it is that more potent form that is most highly associated with male pattern (hormonal) hair thinning,” she says. The anti-inflammatory properties of pumpkin seed oil could aid in hair growth by reducing scalp inflammation, which could lead to hair loss.
Another randomized controlled study on 60 women showed that pumpkin seed oil is as efficient in reducing five percent minoxidil foam for hair regrowth. Minoxidil is a topical and oral drug used to treat female and male pattern baldness, according to the Mayo Clinic. According to the doctor Dr. Murphy-Rose, hairs thin or shrink in the case of hormonal alopecia. “When that happens, the diversity of the hair shafts’ diameters increases — some are normal, and some are thinner.” One method for researchers to determine the efficacy of a medication for alopecia is by checking whether it promotes the diversity of hair shaft diameters.
Three months after treatment during the last trial, patients treated with pumpkin seed oil noticed an improvement in their hair growth (per their hair shaft’s diversity) comparable to those who received minoxidil. They also discovered that the vellus, also known as baby, strands fell and the amount of “regular” hairs increased, “suggesting new hair growth and a favorable response to treatment,” Murphy-Rose adds.
Rosemary Oil
The oil of rosemary is typically extracted by steam from the flowers, leaves, and twigs of rosemary, explains Hershberger.
The Claim
“It does help promote natural healthy hair growth and hair thickness, it helps promote circulation in your hair, which can again promote natural healthy hair growth,” the hair expert Abbey Tameron ( @abbets) stated on rosemary oil in one of her videos.
The Truth
The rosemary oil is believed to boost blood flow through tiny blood vessels. According to Murphy-Rose, this could cause a rise in hair growth by providing more nutrients.
In a single-masked, six-month clinical study with 100 participants, 50 were treated with rosemary oil-based lotion and the remaining 50 with minoxidil 2.5% lotion. Both groups saw an increase in the number of hairs. People in the oils of rosemary were less likely to suffer from itching of the scalp.
“Rosemary contains carnosic acid, which may contribute to scalp health,” she states. The rosemary oil also has the properties of antimicrobials and analgesics “which can help to fight dandruff, a common cause of inflammation on the scalp, which can contribute to hair thinning,” she adds.
Hershberger states that rosemary oil can help to hydrate and strengthen your hair. The stylist of the world, Sean James, who works at Matthew Preece Salon in Santa Monica, California, refers to a study that found rosemary oil as efficient as minoxidil 2 percent within six months. The study also revealed that people who took rosemary oil had a lower risk of suffering from the scalp becoming itchy.
Jojoba Oil
Jojoba oil is extracted from the seeds of the jojoba plant, Hershberger says. As with other oils, Jojoba is generally cold-pressed. Garshick explains that Jojoba is also made up of 50 % wax esters. It “therefore closely resembles natural human sebum,” making it hard for your hair and skin follicles, which are sensitive to the distinction and, consequently, are much more susceptible to absorbing and getting enhanced by it.
The Claim
Hershberger states that jojoba oil is believed to aid in hair thinning, preventing split ends, and nourishing brittle hair. In a single clip, TikToker @melaniekms, who is a Maui hair stylist from Hawaii, said that jojoba oil is “rich in vitamins and minerals that nourish hair,” which include Vitamins C, B, and E and zinc and copper. “Jojoba can also moisturize your scalp and be a dandruff remedy,” she explained.
The Truth
Alongside smoothing and softening the hair, It also provides antioxidant benefits, and it is also anti-inflammatory as well as antibacterial; research was published within the issue of June 2021 Polymers discovered. These characteristics could “help improve overall scalp health, which can promote a healthy environment for the hair,” Garshick says.
According to studies, Jojoba is loaded with vitamins A and D as well as omega fatty acids, and these properties are “great for healthy hair and hair growth,” Garshick states. Another advantage? “It can absorb easier into the scalp and hair follicle for maximum results,” she states. “It’s much lighter than other oils, so it would be great for fine to medium hair.”
Michelle Ornstein, an esthetician and creator of Enessa Skincare in Los Angeles who utilizes Jojoba oil in the Moroccan Argan Silk hair treatment that is left on, says that it can help protect against damage caused by the environment to hair, according to the research mentioned above.
Argan Oil
The oil’s essential ingredient comes from the fruits of Argania spinosa, the tree indigenous to Morocco, according to Garshick.
The Claim
Argan oil is used traditionally to enhance the appearance of hair and skin and repair wounds, according to Garshick. “Using the oil from your scalp from mid-lengths to ends can help to reduce hair breakage and frizzyness. Applying it on your hair can aid in removing dandruff and, yes, hair growth,” said the TikToker @skalliessentials in a YouTube video.
The Truth
Argan oil is likely one of the ingredients you’ve heard of because it’s popular in various hair products.
There is some truth in the idea that argan oil benefits hair. One reason is that it is a rich source of oleic and linoleic acids, two fatty acids linked with numerous benefits, including strengthening the skin barrier, smoothing the hair, and fighting inflammation, according to the research suggests. Also, argan oil contains Squalene, which can aid in hydrating and protecting hair, says Garshick. The result? “Shinier and smoother hair,” she claims.
Argan oil may also help shield your hair from damage caused by heat, for example, using a curling iron, hair dryer, or straightener. In the study published in the October 2022 issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, researchers discovered that pre-treatment of hair exposed to heat using argan oil prevented loss of protein. Like how proteins build muscles, argan oil is believed to increase hair strength, decreasing hair loss and thinning.
“Because [argan oil] is a smaller molecule, it absorbs more easily into the scalp and hair follicles,” Ornstein adds Ornstein.
Additionally, oleic and linoleic acids absorb other ingredients into hair and help reduce inflammation, Ornstein explains. Meanwhile, linoleic acid can help moisturize dry hair thanks to its skin-barrier-strengthening effects.
“Additionally, argan oil contains antioxidants such as polyphenols and vitamin E to help with free radical damage,” she says. And research confirms the idea. The damage caused by free radicals can result from oxidative strain on the body, according to Ornstein. “When there is an imbalance of unstable oxygen atoms within the body, cellular disruption occurs and is followed by inflammation, premature aging, and illness.”
Lemongrass Oil
Lemongrass oil comes from lemongrass leaves rich in minerals, citral, and vitamins, as per Garshick.
The Claim
Tameron ( @abbets) stated that lemongrass oil is excellent for hair health. “A lot of the time when you have a flaky scalp, lemongrass can go in there and clean it up a little bit, which helps with your scalp health, which [in turn] helps with naturally healthy hair growth,” Tameron commented on her YouTube.
The Truth
Lemongrass has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial qualities; research has demonstrated. “While it does not itself cause hair to grow, it can strengthen the hairs to minimize the potential for hair loss,” Garshick adds. According to a tiny study, the oil could drastically reduce dandruff after application on the scalp and nodding at its antifungal qualities.
Coconut Oil
Coconut oil is a fat-rich oil derived from coconuts and is used in hair care and skin care due to its moisturizing properties, according to Garshick.
The Claim
TikTokers like Jenny Liu, MD Jenny Liu, MD East Brunswick, New Jersey-based dermatologist, have stated that coconut oil “penetrates well into the hair shaft,” “helps to reduce breakage,” and “nourishes hair.”
The Truth
Coconut oil is a rich source of lauric acid, which can be anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. These features suggest it can promote healthy hair strands, as studies show. A research study in 2003 discovered coconut oil to be rich in fatty acids with low molecular mass, which helped it penetrate the hair shaft and decrease the loss of protein when applied as an after-wash treatment. “Because coconut oil can have moisturizing properties, it can help to nourish the scalp and the hair to improve overall hair health,” Garshick claims. While it has been proven to strengthen hair and lessen breakage, there’s insufficient evidence to suggest that it aids in hair growth, she adds.
Avocado Oil
Avocado oil, made by removing the pulp from the avocado, is used for cooking and in various cosmetics and hair products.
The Claim
“Avocado oil improves hair growth,” stated TikTok member @eliyahmashiach2 in a post that has been watched 1.6 million times via TikTok. Furthermore, she claims it eases flaky and dry, and flaky skin.
The Truth
“Avocado oil is thought to be moisturizing because it’s rich in monounsaturated fatty acids, which can penetrate the hair follicle,” Garshick explains. “It also works to nourish and strengthen the hairs, helping to support overall hair health.” Furthermore, since it’s rich in antioxidants, it could aid in protecting hair from environmental and UV exposures. While there isn’t a lot of research specifically focused on avocado oil, a review from 2015 discovered that the minerals present in avocado oil, particularly those monounsaturated fatty acids, can effectively seal hair cuticle cells and prevent breakage.
3 Tips on Using Essential Oils for Hair Growth
Ensure you follow these steps before applying any oil to your hair.
Source Your Oils Carefully
All essential oils are not made to be the same. Ornstein and Hershberger emphasize the importance of finding top-quality, unrefined oils that are not refined. “I always recommend using cold-pressed, non-GMO/organic oils,” states Hershberger. “It’s essential to conduct your homework regarding natural alternatives for hair products. You should know where they came from.” Ornstein explains that the oil’s essential components lose many of its properties during the refinement process. “Anything you would take out of the oil — if it is for the purpose of deodorizing it or reducing sediment or color — is only reducing the benefits that the oil provides,” she says.
Use With a Carrier Oil
Ornstein states that it is essential to mix essential oils and carrier oils, which are the method of delivery for crucial oils. Essential oils will be too concentrated to apply directly to the skin without oil carriers. She claims that using a carrier oil will “get the full benefits that plant oils without the risk of irritation that essential oils applied straight would have on the skin” she claims. Examples of carrier oils are coconut, olive, and Jojoba.
Let the Oils Saturate
Hershberger says you have oils to be saturated to make them work. “Stimulate with a comb, leave on for about 30 to 40 minutes, and always shampoo out,” she advises.
When Should You See a Doctor for Hair Loss?
Certain essential oils can aid in maintaining scalp health; people suffering from severe hair loss should see an MD before attempting home solutions, James says. “As hairdressers, we can recommend shampoos, but we cannot recommend cures for medical conditions,” James explains.
There are various methods to determine how severe your hair loss is. The first test is called the pull. “With this exercise, place around 60 hairs with your fingers and pull them a small amount while you run your fingers along your hair. From the 60 hairs, it’s normal to observe between 5 to 8 hairs fall out this way,” he says. Anything more than that even between 15 and 20 -may be a sign that you’re suffering from severe hair loss.
It is also possible to try your hand at the test. “In this exercise, you’ll have to grab an apron and comb your hair from side to side for a minute while leaning on a sheet or towel that is light in color. When the timer is up, count the hairs on the fabric,” he states. As with the pulling test, you’ll find only ten chairs per sheet.
Summary
According to experts and a few studies, some essential oils may boost hair health. If you’re experiencing severe hair loss, it could be due to an underlying illness or a dietary deficit. If so, consult with your doctor to identify the source of the issue.
If you’re looking to dip into this hair-oiling trend, think about rosemary oil or pumpkin seed and rosemary oil, which have been proven effective by the most convincing research. Make sure you get high-quality, pure oils.